So this thread is basically going to be a 'build' of my engine swap, I'm new to engine work (never attempted anything like this) so any critique and advise is more than welcome. The main reason I've taken this project on is because I wanted to learn about engines, without having to tear down the engine that is currently in my Jeep. I figured why not buy a 5.9, learn about it, fix it up and swap it in?
So going on that I went out and bought a 5.9 Magnum engine from a 99 Dodge Ram.
Home and on the stand
As you can tell it needs some work. So begins the tear down.
dirty
Heads off
This is pretty much were I am now, I have the oil pan off and will be taking the timing cover and chain when I get some free time.
So here's the plan
Keep everything stock, or mostly stock.
Take the block to get cleaned and machined as needed.
Replace Pistons if needed
New timing chain
New water pump
New heads if needed
Pretty much new everything
I have a ton of work left to do, but I wanted to go ahead and get this posted, hopefully any engine gurus can advise me and make sure I'm pointed in the right direction. :thumbsup:
Like I said, I've never done engine work, ever, so this is all new to me. If the project fails, I'm only out some time and money, and at least I'll have learned about engines. :laugh:
I'm really interested to see how this goes! This is something I started thinking about doing to my 95 Orvis one day. Keep us updated on how everything comes together.
Did you get the computer from the 5.9 as well? Or do you plan on having yours flashed to work? I know carbs very well but not too much about the technology crap!
OBD1 5.2 ZJ computers have enough fuel trim overhead to run a stock or near-stock 5.9. Open-loop running probably leaves something to be desired but I've never gotten around to installing an AFR gauge on mine.
OP: Good luck with your build! The Magnum motors are dead easy to work on and are a good place to learn how to build. Follow your shop manual, have your heads inspected for cracks, and be sure to Plasti-gage your bearing tolerances.
I'm glad you mentioned plasti-gage, I'd never heard of that, but I just googled it and it should be easy enough to check. Thanks! :thumbsup: Any other things to check? I've read a lot on the parts I need to order to make my 5.9 work with the 95 zj. But I'm sure that there are things I don't know still. It definitely is! I've always wanted to learn about engines so I'm glad I finally can. I think I paid $500 for the engine at one of the local yards, the stand was around $170 at Northern Tool. Yes! I have a cheap HF torque wrench now, but will be upgrading to a nicer more exact one before I start re-assembling everything.
One other thing idk what they are called but there are these little plastic caps things that you can get to put on the bolts on your connecting rod when you are putting them in the block it's just protection for the crank that way if you accidentally bump it you have less of a chance at scarring the crank
But it still pings when warming up with the stock computer. I keep the performance computer on the shelf as a spare now. Anyway been like this for 4 years now.
You don't need caps for the con rods, just some rubber hose over the bolts work. Other than that, take the block to get cleaned honed and inspected, and the head taken in for straightness and general inspection. It might need new valve seals as well. Other than that, I am super jealous! I need a new motor in mine and am going to do this as well in the next month or so.
So I'm picking up a complete 360 out of a 97 dodge 2500 with computer. I plan on using my kegger computer , etc.
I bought for my 318 last year but never installed:
Hughes kit
Gaskets
Coil
Plugs/wires
Distributor
All of these should work on the 360 as well as my accessories correct?
You can reuse the bolts, but new is good. Get some ARP assy lube for torquing the bolts.
5.9 heads are known to crack between the valves. Maybe have the heads checked out by a shop. With that being said, I got a 5.9 out of a niner and never pulled the heads and that was 45,000 miles ago. The thing is it's really easy to pull the heads with the motor on a stand.
edit
be sure to drain the block of coolant if you pull the heads
Yeah, all the Magnum heads tend to crack as the 5.2 and 5.9 heads are all the same design. When I was checking parts out during my build, both of my high-mile 5.2 heads and both of my lowish-mile 5.9 heads were cracked. Crack repair can be expensive, if yours are cracked you may be better off getting aftermarket heads in the long run - I was quoted $300 to fix my heads, and then at pickup was handed a bill for $800. Had I known, I'd have just gone with a set of Iron Ram heads from Hughes.
The cracks can be tough to spot with the naked/untrained eye. I thought I had two uncracked ones, but when put on the magnaflux machine it became immediately obvious.
Sub'd. This will be interesting to watch along with. I'm looking at building out a full performance stroked 5.9 build somewhere a fair ways down the way. I gotta get my shop space built out and get some 240/120v power and water ran out to it before I can start a full build project like that.
360 out of a 97 dodge 2500 complete from torque converter to fan loaded in the truck for 400$. 160k miles on it. Guy was swapping a 5.9 Cummins in for sand drags
x2, just swap over your whole 93 intake and throttle body assembly (incl. sensors) while you're doing the plenum, since the 93 uses twin temperature sensors and the later intake may not be tapped for the second one. If you've already done the plenum on your 93, so much the better. You'll be using your '93s exhaust manifolds with the EGR as well.
Making some more progress today. I'm no expert, but I don't think that the timing chain is supposed to look burnt...
And sorry for the poor picture quality, my phone broke yesterday and all I have for pictures is an old ipod
Dirty piston
Timing chain
I will be replacing the timing chain, since I am that means I don't need to mark this one before I take it off right? I'm about to double check with my haynes but I think that's right.
I will be replacing the timing chain, since I am that means I don't need to mark this one before I take it off right? I'm about to double check with my haynes but I think that's right.
Gears should have an indent in them. When you put the new chain on, make them line up (top gear faces down and bottom faces up)
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